Best Brush For Double Coated Dogs Shedding Spring

Best Brush For Double Coated Dogs Shedding Spring

What do you notice about your dogโ€™s coat right now, in these early spring weeks?

Does the fur seem thicker than usual, or is it coming off in big handfuls every time you run your hand along his back?

And when you try to brush him with the tool you have always used, the one that worked fine last summer, does it feel like youโ€™re barely making a dent, while clouds of undercoat float around the room and stick to everything?

If that sounds familiar, you are not alone, and you are not doing anything โ€œwrong.โ€ Most double-coated breeds go through a heavy โ€œcoat blowโ€ in spring (and often again in fall), and the brush that feels right for surface grooming usually is not the right tool for removing the dense, dead undercoat that is trapped underneath.

So let us slow down and look at this together:

  • What actually makes up a double coat?
  • Why do ordinary brushes and slickers struggle so much during shedding season?
  • And what single change, choosing the right kind of brush, tends to make the biggest, fastest difference for most owners in this exact situation?

We will reason through each piece step by step.

 

What is a Double Coat, Really?

A double coat has two very different layers that serve different jobs:

  • Outer Guard Hairs: Longer, coarser, weather-resistant, and usually shiny. These are the โ€œvisibleโ€ coats most people see.
  • Dense Undercoat: Short, soft, wool-like hairs packed very close together. Their main job is insulation: trapping air to keep the dog warm in winter and cool in summer.

During spring (and fall for many breeds), the undercoat is designed to shed out almost completely so the dog can regulate temperature in warmer weather. That is the โ€œblowing coatโ€ phase youโ€™re seeing now.

Question: If the undercoat is soft, short, and extremely thick, what kind of brush do you think would reach down and pull those hairs out instead of just gliding over the top?

 

Why Most Brushes Fail During Heavy Shedding

A classic slicker brush is excellent for removing surface tangles and loose guard hairs, but look closely at its pins: they are thin, bent, and spaced fairly close together.

That design works beautifully on single coats or lightly double-coated dogs, but on a thick undercoat, it tends to:

  • Skim across the top layer
  • Catch in mats without reaching the undercoat
  • Pull out only a little at a time
  • Leave most of the dead wool trapped underneath

A regular bristle brush or rubber curry is even less effective; they are meant for shine and massage, not deep deshedding.

So if you have been using one of those and still see fur everywhere, what do you think the missing piece might be?

Many owners discover the answer is a tool designed specifically to reach through the guard coat and rake out the undercoat without damaging the longer hairs.

 

The Two Brushes that Matter Most During Coat Blow

Let us compare the two tools that actually move the needle for double-coated breeds in spring:

  • Undercoat rake (sometimes called a deshedding rake or comb with long, rounded teeth)
    • Long, widely spaced, straight or slightly curved pins
    • Reaches deep into the undercoat without catching too much on guard hairs
    • Pulls out huge amounts of loose wool in long strokes
    • Works best when used in the direction of hair growth
  • Slicker brush (short, fine, bent-wire pins)
    • Excellent for finishing, removing loose surface hair, and preventing mats
    • Can be used lightly on the undercoat, but not as the main deshedding tool
    • If used too aggressively during heavy blow, it can break guard hairs or irritate skin
    • Most experienced double-coat owners end up using both, but in a specific order:
    • Start with the undercoat rake to remove the bulk of the dead undercoat
    • Finish with the slicker to smooth the guard hairs and catch any remaining loose bits

Have you ever tried an undercoat rake? If not, what do you think might happen if you switched from slicker-only to rake-first during the heaviest shedding weeks?

 

Quick Side-By-Side: Which Brush for Which Job

Situation Best First Tool Why It Wins in Spring Shedding
Heavy undercoat coming out in clumps Undercoat rake Reaches deep, removes mass quickly, minimal damage to the top coat
Surface tangles or light shedding Slicker brush Fine pins catch loose guard hairs and smooth the top coat
Finishing/daily maintenance Slicker brush Leaves coat shiny, prevents new mats
Removing stubborn mats Undercoat rake (gently) + slicker Rake loosens, slicker finishes without pulling

 

Read also:ย Removing Dog Smell From Couch Without Washing Machine

 

Practical Routine that Works for Most Double-Coated Breeds in Spring

  • Brush outdoors;ย wind carries fur away instead of into your house
  • Start with the rake;ย long, gentle strokes with the hair growth direction; work in sections
  • Switch to slicker;ย light passes to remove remaining loose hair and smooth
  • Check belly, armpits, tail pants, behind ears;ย these areas mat fast and are often forgotten
  • Finish with a quick damp cloth wipe; removes loose fur from the surface
  • Repeat every 2 to 4 days during peak blow (usually 3 to 6 weeks)

Most owners report dramatically less fur in the house after switching to this rake-first approach.

Check Price on Amazon

Check Price on Amazon

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Will an Undercoat Damage My Dogโ€™s Top Coat?

Not if you use it correctly, with gentle strokes in the direction of hair growth, never against the coat or with heavy pressure. Start slow, and your dog will usually relax once he sees that it feels good.

How Often Should I Brush During Peak Shedding?

Every 1 to 3 days is ideal while the undercoat is coming out heavily (usually 3 to 6 weeks). Daily is fine if your dog enjoys it and you are gentle.

Can I Use a Furminator Instead of a Rake?

The Furminator is a type of undercoat rake (short version). It works well for many dogs but can be too aggressive on long-coated or sensitive-skinned breeds. A longer-toothed rake is often gentler and more effective on thick undercoats.

My Dog Hates Being Brushed Any Tips?

Start with very short sessions (1 to 2 minutes), use high-value treats, brush when he is relaxed (after a walk or meal), and stop before he gets stressed. Many dogs learn to love it once they associate it with rewards and gentle handling.

 

Conclusion

If your current brush is only skimming the top coat and leaving most of the undercoat behindโ€ฆ what do you think will happen to the shedding mess over the next few weeks if you keep using the same tool?

Now, imagine swapping to a rake that actually reaches the layer that is coming out. How much less fur would end up on your floors, furniture, and clothes?

That single change is what turns โ€œshedding season is miserableโ€ into โ€œshedding season is manageableโ€ for a lot of people.

So tell me, what breed is your double-coated companion, and what brush are you using right now? If you are willing to try the rake method this weekend, let me know how it goes. I read every reply, and your experience might help the next person who is reading this feel overwhelmed by fur.

About The Author


Discover more from Pestclue

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.