How To Care For a Pet Jumping Spider

Your pet jump spider has daily access to light. Place your enclosures in ambient sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight as it can cause enclosures overheat, and this can be fatal.

You can keep them in a home office, where they will receive daily sunlight. LED desk lamps near enclosures can be switched on during the day.

Remember that jumping spiders can be quite small. Even larger species like Phidippus regina or Phidippus audiax will not grow much bigger than 18mm (roughly 3/4 inch).

Jumping spiders do not require a lot of space in order to flourish. Continue reading to learn more!


How Do I Describe the Pet Jumping Spider?

Pet Jumping Spider
Picture of a Pet Jumping Spider

Salticidae is a family of spiders that includes jumping spiders. Over 6,000 species are found in the world except Antarctica.

The body is compact, robust and has powerful legs. Their eyes are large. They are active predators, stalking prey and then pouncing.

Spiders are not known to have such a good vision. They can also see in color, which is rare. They are low-maintenance and entertaining pets.

The vision of jumping spiders is superior to any other spider. It can track small objects and detect them with high precision. It is able to see different colours including ultraviolet (UV), green, blue and red.

The two largest and most complex eyes are the principal pair.

The highly developed nervous systems of these animals allow them to make complex and quick decisions based on visual information. They are excellent hunters.

Jumping spiders are found on all continents except Antarctica, in a variety of habitats, from deserts to rainforests.

The species can vary in their colouration, patterns and patterning. It is unknown with certainty where jumping spiders originated.

It is still believed that spiders evolved from a group that lived 180 million years ago, during the Jurassic Period. Fossil evidence indicates that modern jumping spiders are similar to fossil jumping spiders.

They are intelligent and can be a great pet. Some spiders are friendly and enjoy interacting, while others can be shy.

They are friendly spiders, and there is little chance of getting bitten when handled gently.

It is important to know the conditions that their natural habitat offers and to try to replicate them. This will help to ensure that your pet is safe.


Read also: The Duties of the Spider Exterminator At Pest Clue


What are the Most Kept Pet Jumping Spiders?

  • Bold Jumping Spider:

Bold jumping spiders (Phidippus Audax), with their black-and-white bodies (orange/black for spiderlings), are easily identifiable. They often have iridescent blue or green chelicerae.

Male spiders grow to a maximum of 6-13mm while females reach 8-19mm. Their movements are bold and docile, and they show this through their activity.

The white triangle and two spots below it in the middle of the back are distinctive. The legs and pedipalps also have white fringes and banding, which is more visible in males.

  • Regal Jumping Spider:

The females of the Regal Jumping Spiders, Phidippus Regius, are known for their attractive coloration and large size.

Males are mostly black, with a white pattern consisting of stripes and spots (which makes it difficult to identify them as opposed to bold or audax).

Females have the same pattern as males but they are more colorful. Instead of the black tones that are predominant, there are beautiful shades ranging from orange to grey. The fringes at the bottom are also less defined.

The colours of chelicerae are intense, ranging from violet to blue. The average adult male is 12mm long, while the average adult female is 15mm. Males can be as small as 6-18mm and females up to 7-22mm. This species is active at night.


What are the Tools Required For Keeping the Pet Jumping Spider?

  • Tweezers for picking up meals or moving objects in the enclosure.
  • Small paintbrush, ideally a soft bristle brush, and a small clear container for coaxing the spider (catch cup).
  • A spray bottle with a very fine mist and pipette for hydrating the enclosure.
  • Distilled water, such is better as it prevents mineral build-up on surfaces.
  • Light source; to regulate the photoperiodism of spiders and maintain appropriate light cycles.
  • Heat source to maintain the desired temperature (be cautious).
  • Decorations such as:
    • Sticks
    • Leaves
    • Natural textures
    • Silk flowers
  • Magnets to secure decorations in place.
  • Food-safe adhesives include 100% silicone, cyanoacrylate, mod podge, and epoxy.
  • Feeder insects, such as:
    • Fruit flies
    • House flies
    • Mealworms
    • Pinhead crickets
  • Arboreal Enclosure, either bought or DIY, with adequate ventilation, escape proof and big enough to contain the spider.
  • Optionally, a natural enclosure with a substrate at the bottom can maintain moisture levels such as:
    • Coconut fibre
    • Moss
    • Sand
    • Oil-based substrates such as:
      • Coconut fibre
      • Moss
      • Sand
      • Cotton balls
      • Dust-free vermiculite
      • Perlite can be combined


How Often Should a Pet Jumping Spider Be Fed?

It is important to take into account the size and weight of your pet spider when deciding what to feed it.

As they grow, their prey will become larger. Jumping spiders are capable of taking down prey that is twice their size.

As they grow, reduce feeding frequency and use their body shape to guide you. Wait to feed them if they still look plump. Sub-adults should only be fed every 3-8days, while adults can feed every 5-10days.

When your spider is hungry, its abdomen will show you. A plump abdomen is a sign of good health as it indicates that the spider has enough water and a full stomach.

A spider that is engorged may have overfed. This can cause health problems. A spider with a shrunken or shriveled abdomen could be hungry or dehydrated.

Good prey choices include:

                • Wingless fruit flies
                • Dubia roaches
                • Houseflies
                • Spikes (maggots)
                • Small mealworms
                • Wax worms
                • Black soldier flies
                • Blue bottle flies
                • Crickets

Avoid hard-shelled insects and ants as they may pinch or spray formic acids. Other insects, such as moths and flies that cannot bite, are safe to use.

Remove the spider’s back legs if you’re worried about insects biting it, such as crickets.

It may take your spider several hours to consume its prey. Let it eat at its own rate. The mouthparts of spiders are different from those found in mammals.

The chelicerae are specialized mouth parts that work like straws. They do not have teeth, and they cannot chew.

The chelicerae have a lot of muscle and they work together with smaller mouthparts in order to sucking up water and liquefied parts of their prey.

The females can feed longer than the males. Overfeeding can lead to them becoming too plump or falling in the enclosure.

They can also be shortened in life if they are overfed. You can stimulate your spider with heat or light and place worms near its face if it hasn’t eaten for some time.

Don’t worry if they don’t start eating. They will be fine. If they don’t eat, you won’t be able to do much about it.

Keep the enclosure clean by removing any food or waste. With a Q-tip, water and a Q tip you can clean the enclosure.

Remember that each spider has a different food preference. No matter how long the spider takes to eat, do not disturb it.


Read also: Facts You Did Not Know About the Larinioides Sclopetarius Spider


What is the Life Expectancy of Pet Jumping Spiders?

Instars are the developmental stages of spiders between moults. The term is used to describe the number of moults (shedding its exoskeleton and growing a new one) that a spider has gone through.

Instars vary from species to species but there are usually several between hatching and adulthood. Jumping spiders shed their skin approximately 8 times in a nine-month period.

Instar numbers are used to identify the developmental stage of an individual. Instar nine, for example, is usually abbreviated “i9”, indicating the spider’s ninth developmental stage.

In addition to the instar descriptions, the spider’s life stages are commonly referred to as the egg, spiderlings, juveniles, sub-adults, adults and matures.

When the spider hatches, it will reach its first instar. It will then continue to moult as well as increase the number of instars with each moult.

It is important to not disturb the spider’s moulting process. Also, make sure to keep their enclosure moist enough to prevent moulting tragedies.

Jumping spiders moult in their web or hammock. Some spiders may spin a cocoon to protect themselves from predators and other external elements.

As the spider ages, it takes longer to moult. The moulting process can take a long time for older spiders.

They may not be able to eat at this time. It’s best to avoid disturbing the hammock, and wait a few weeks after they have emerged to feed them to prevent injury.


How Do I Care For an Elderly Pet Jumping Spider?

As your spider grows older, you may notice changes in its appearance. You may see a change in the colour of markings or patterns with each molt. In some cases, spiders’ front legs can become longer and more hairy.

The tarsus of a spider is the last leg segment. It contains setae/bristles that are used for sensing information, vibration detection, prey capture/detection, and clinging.

Some spiders have “scopulae”, which are setae that use van der Waals forces, like geckos, to adhere to surfaces.

The components of their tarsus (particularly setae) do not replenish themselves after their last molt. This makes it difficult for older spiders to climb and cling.

These parts become worn out with age and no longer perform their function. It changes their behavior to make fewer risksy jumps. They eat less and are less active.

You can help by lining the enclosure with a cloth napkin. This will also add more decoration for walking. It also acts as padding in the event that your spider falls.

You can also stop offering insects like crickets that bite. You can also use flies, or pre-kill your food.

Drop the food in the hammock of the spider and it will take it.

A spider that has difficulty moving can find a smaller enclosure more comfortable. A spider who cannot produce silk can find comfort in an enclosure that has plenty of web.


What are the Factors that May Affect the Health of a Pet Jumping Spider?

  • Quality of air and proper ventilation, spiders are susceptible to scents and chemicals. Therefore, avoid using:

            • Candles

            • Air fresheners

            • Pesticides

            • Flea medication

            • Toxic cleaning products

            • Poisons in the area where your spider is kept

Remove your spider from your home for at least 72 hours if such products must be used.

  • Quality of food –  a good variety of feeders is important

  • Proper humidity levels – dehydration and excessive humidity are among the most common reasons for death.

  • Proper photoperiodism cycle – low light or short periods can trigger diapause-like behaviour.

  • Proper temperatures.

  • Clean enclosure free of mould and pests.


What are the Common Illnesses In Pet Jumping Spiders?

  • Heatstroke may occur when the spider is exposed to direct sunlight or external heating sources that are not controlled. You can treat it by keeping the enclosure humid and warm, but not too hot.
  • There is no treatment for egg binding, which is caused when a spider is unable to lay eggs.
  • It is difficult to prevent mismolting, which occurs when the spider does not shed its exoskeleton properly. However, it can be avoided by increasing humidity during the molting period.
  • When spiderlings do not eat or grow, the cause of this is unknown.
  • If the spider falls in the water, it can drown. There is little that can be done.
  • The passive recessive disease is a genetic condition that causes unusual behavior and death.
  • DKS is a disorder that is characterized by jerky movements, poor coordination and loss of appetite. There is no known treatment or cause for DKS.


Read also: How Pets Help Students Relieve Stress and Relax



You should handle and interact with your pet jumping Spider with caution. They are small, and their abdomen can be easily ruptured or squished.

Even though it’s rare, jumping spiders will bite humans when they feel threatened. The sting will be similar to that of a bee.

Contact emergency services immediately if you have a severe reaction. It’s important to be cautious when handling a spider for the first time.

It is dangerous to disturb a jumping spider in this stage. If something happens, clear the area around the enclosure. Have a “catching” cup ready to catch the spider.

Use the soft bristle brushes to gently guide your spider from the enclosure. Let it get used to its new surroundings before you try and handle it.

Wait until the spider stops hiding or trying to escape before you handle it. Two ways are available to handle the spider: either guide it to your hand using a brush, or trick the spider into jumping onto your hand.

Place your other hand behind the spider so that it will move from hand to hand when it moves. The spider will get used to being handled with patience and by interacting regularly. Thanks for reading!

About The Author

Discover more from Pestclue

Subscribe to get the latest posts to your email.

Leave a feedback

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.